Stunning Shillong

Photograph by Preeti Verma Lal

Its roads are narrow, winding and undulating, its houses very Anglican and laced with flowers - the geraniums, the poinsettias and the marigolds add that divine splash of color to the whites, the greens and the blues of the houses. The people are warm, wear colorful clothes and don't ever miss the sweet-basket that comes with high tea. Everyone chews a betel leaf and everyone speaks English, there's warmth in the heart, but be careful of the nights - it gets really cold.

Let's make the ultimate Truth really simple: Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, is absolutely stunning. It is perched at 1,491 meters above sea level and borrows its name from U Shyllong, a potent deity. Its roads are narrow, winding and undulating, its houses very Anglican and laced with flowers - the geraniums, the poinsettias and the marigolds add that divine splash of color to the whites, the greens and the blues of the houses. The people are warm, wear colorful clothes and don't ever miss the sweet-basket that comes with high tea. Everyone chews a betel leaf and everyone speaks English, there's warmth in the heart, but be careful of the nights - it gets really cold. There are luxurious hotels, the nights sparkle in the three discotheques and there's music everywhere. The handwoven shawls and the handicrafts are exquisite. Take home the orchids and the carnivorous pitcher plants.

I could write a tome on the oh-so-beautiful Shillong, but spare me the trouble, just take a flight and go to Shillong.

Ward's Lake: It is almost a century old, it is an artificial lake, sits in the heart of the city and is named after Sir William Ward, the then Chief Commissioner of Assam. The locals prefer to call it Nan Polok (Polok's Lake) in memory of an executive engineer by the same name. A favorite with joggers and anglers, you can walk around its cobbled pathway dotted with flowers and flowering trees. You can have snacks and coffee at the restaurant and enjoy a boat ride. The Lake opens at 8.30am and there's an entry fee and added fee if you are carrying a camera.

Lady Hydrai Park: The barking deer, the sambhars and the saras crane sit in an enclosure and attract several visitors, both old and young. Being in the heart of the city has made it a popular spot with the locals and the tourists. There is an entry fee and don't miss the jhal-muri and the egg roll sold outside the main gate - they are cheap and very yummy. Next to it is the Crinoline Falls and the city's only swimming pool, also known as the Crinoline swimming pool.

Capt Williamson Sangma State Museum: Run by the state government this museum is a treasure trove of ethnic art and culture. Situated in the State central Library premises, the Museum is flanked by a stone memorial to U Kiang Nangbah, who laid down his life fighting against the British.

If you want to go museum hopping look for the Zoological Museum in Risa Colony, Anthropological Museum at Mawblei, Botanical Museum at Fourth Furlong, Arunachal Museum in the Cantonment Area, Air Force Museum in Upper Shillong and the Don Bosco Theological Museum at Mawlai.

All Saint's Cathedral: Bang opposite the State Central Library is this beautiful ancient church, its spires reaching out to the sky and its doors the color of ebony. Within its premises are two monoliths, one commemorating the centenary of the Church building and the other 125 years of All Saints Congregation held in Shillong.
Golf Course: Set at an altitude of 5,200 ft and often referred to as the 'Gleneagle of the East', the famed Golf Course was set up in 1898 as a nine-hole course. It was later converted into an 18-hole course in 1924 by Captain Jackson and C.K. Rhodes and is now considered one of best natural golf courses in the world. It is a popular meeting point for professionals and amateurs.

Shillong Peak: Nearly 1,965 meters above sea level and 10 kms away from the city of Shillong, Shillong Peak is the highest point in the state. On a foggy day, you are literally one with the clouds, on a sunny day you can have a stunning bird's eye view of the city. And in the evening when the city is lit be at the Shillong Peak. When you look at the city through the dense pine, the entire area looks like studded with diamond and gold. Every spring people gather here to watch the priest of Mylliem state offer prayers to U Shulong.

Sohpetbneng Peak: Known as the Navel of Heaven in Khasi mythology, Sohpetbneng Peak is considered sacred by the Hynniewtrep people. Set against the backdrop of a sacred forest, the peak is 1,343 meters above sea level and 20 kms from the city.

Elephant, Spread Eagle & Sweet Falls: The city is fringed with several waterfalls all within a radius of 15 kms. Elephant Falls is 12 kms away and descends through two successive falls amidst fern-laden rocks. It is flanked by two smaller falls - Weilaplam Falls and Wir Phang Falls. There is a footpath leading into a breathtaking view of Nature, wear comfortable shoes.

Set within the limits of the Shillong Cantonment, Spread Eagle Falls takes its name from the way it looks. The waterfall looks like an eagle with its wings spread and is locally known as Urkaliar, or the Falls into which Ka Liar slipped.

If Spread Eagle looks like an eagle, at Sweet Falls, the water drops vertically from roughly 200 ft and resembles a straight line of water dripping from a gigantic water pipe.

Mawphlang Sacred Grove: If you want to see Nature in all its pristine beauty, drive 20 kms to the Mawphlang Sacred Grove also called Law Lyngdoh. Home to rare orchids like Blue Vanda and Lady's Slipper and the carnivorous Pitcher plant, the Grove is a shining example of preserving the ancient ecosystem. The humus-covered ground is home to some of the rarest plants unseen in any other part of the world. No wonder it is a naturalist's delight.

Even today nobody plucks a leaf or picks the dry pine from the forest - it is sacrilege to bring home anything home from the Grove. The annual flower show and festival is held in Mawphlang in July.


How to get there:
By air: Nearest airport is Umroi, 35 kms away. Alliance Air flies six days a week from Kolkata. Taxis and buses ply between Umroi airport and Shillong. But if you are flying from Delhi, the flight takes you to Guwahati, 128 kms away, from where you either take a bus or a cab to Shillong.
A helicopter service operates between Guwahati, Shillong and Tura. However, the baggage limit is only 10 kgs.
By rail: The nearest railhead is Guwahati. You can take a bus or a cab to Shillong.
By road: National Highway 40 connects Guwahati and Shillong. Buses, taxis and shared taxi services are easily available. The bus stand in Guwahati is near the railway station, in Shillong the bus stand is near Centre Point.

Published in Sun magazine, December 2004.

Contact: Preeti@deepblueink.com